Getting your hands on an eleanor body kit mustang is the dream for a lot of us who grew up watching Nicholas Cage outrun half the LAPD in a silver-and-black 1967 Fastback. That car, nicknamed Eleanor, didn't just star in a movie; it basically rewrote the rules for what a cool resto-mod should look like. Even decades after Gone in 60 Seconds hit theaters, that specific silhouette—with its aggressive front end, bulging hood, and side-exit exhausts—remains one of the most requested styles in the entire car world.
If you're thinking about taking the plunge and building one, you probably already know it's not as simple as slapping on some new bumpers and calling it a day. It's a labor of love (and sometimes a labor of pure frustration), but the end result is something that stops traffic wherever it goes.
What Makes an Eleanor an Eleanor?
When people talk about an eleanor body kit mustang, they aren't just talking about any old Mustang modification. They're looking for a very specific set of aerodynamic and aesthetic changes that mimic the hero car from the film. The kit usually consists of about 10 to 12 main pieces, depending on how detailed you want to go.
The most obvious part is the front fascia. Unlike the stock '67 or '68 Mustang, which has a relatively flat face, the Eleanor kit extends the nose, giving it a more predatory, pointed look. It houses those iconic center-mounted driving lights that sit right in the middle of the lower grille. Then you've got the hood. It's not just a flat piece of fiberglass; it has that distinct "power bulge" that suggests there's a massive Shelby-style engine lurking underneath.
Moving along the sides, you have the flares. These are widened wheel arches that give the car a much meaner stance. But the real star of the side profile is the rocker panels with the integrated side exhaust cutouts. There's something about seeing those pipes exit right in front of the rear wheels that just screams "muscle car."
Choosing Your Donor Car
Before you even buy the kit, you need the right car. Most people aim for a 1967 or 1968 Mustang Fastback. Why those years? Because those are the ones the kit was originally designed for. The lines match up perfectly, and the roofline of the Fastback is essential to pulling off the look.
Now, if you can't find a Fastback (or don't want to spend the crazy money they're going for these days), some people try to use a Coupe as a base. It's doable, but you'll have to buy a "Fastback conversion" kit first, which involves cutting off the entire roof and rear section of the car. It's a massive job, and honestly, if you aren't an expert welder, it might be more trouble than it's worth.
Another thing to consider is whether you're going for a "tribute" car or a fully licensed replica. There's a lot of legal history behind the Eleanor name, and some kits are more "official" than others. For most of us building in our garages, a high-quality fiberglass kit from a reputable manufacturer is more than enough to get the job done.
The Reality of Working with Fiberglass
Here's the part that catches a lot of people off guard: fiberglass kits are almost never "bolt-on." If you buy an eleanor body kit mustang and expect the parts to fit perfectly straight out of the box, you're in for a surprise.
Fiberglass panels usually require a ton of "finesse." You'll spend hours—no, days—sanding, trimming, and adding filler to get the gaps to line up. In the movie, the cars looked flawless, but those were professional movie cars with teams of builders. When you're doing it yourself, you have to be patient. You have to test-fit everything multiple times before you even think about reaching for the paint gun.
The flares and side skirts usually need to be blended or "molded" into the metal body of the car to look right. If you just pop-rivet them on, it's going to look cheap. To get that seamless, high-end look, you need to use structural adhesive and body filler, then sand it down until the transition from metal to fiberglass is completely invisible. It's a lot of dusty, itchy work, but it's the difference between a car that looks like a masterpiece and one that looks like a DIY project gone wrong.
The Side Exhaust Challenge
One of the coolest features of the Eleanor is the side-exit exhaust. It's iconic. But it's also one of the biggest headaches in the build. On a standard Mustang, the exhaust runs all the way to the back and exits under the rear bumper. To make the side pipes work, you have to reroute the plumbing.
This often means you'll have to use a specific type of subframe connector or even modify the floor pans a bit to give the pipes enough clearance. You also have to worry about heat. Those pipes run very close to the body and the tires, so heat shielding is a must if you don't want your paint bubbling or your interior getting toasted. But once you turn the key and hear that V8 rumble right next to your ear? You'll forget all about the hours you spent under the car wrestling with exhaust hangers.
Getting the Paint and Stripes Right
You can't talk about an Eleanor without talking about the color scheme. The classic look is "Pepper Grey" with black racing stripes. It's a metallic charcoal color that looks incredible under garage lights and even better in the sun.
The stripes aren't just two straight lines, either. There's a specific "Le Mans" style to them, with a thin pinstripe bordering the main thick stripes. Getting the alignment perfect over the hood bulge and down the trunk lid is a real test of a painter's skill. If the stripes are even half an inch off, the whole car looks "tilted."
While grey and black is the standard, don't feel like you're trapped by it. I've seen Eleanor-style builds in deep metallic blue, solid black, and even red. The body kit is so distinctive that it still looks like an Eleanor no matter what color you choose, but if you want that movie-magic feel, Pepper Grey is the only way to go.
Wheels and the Finishing Touches
To finish off the look of your eleanor body kit mustang, you need the right wheels. The movie car used Schmidt wheels (often called "Eleanor-style" or Halibrand-style wheels). They have that classic 1960s racing look with a modern twist—usually 17 or 18 inches to fill out those widened wheel wells.
Inside the car, people usually go for a wood-rimmed steering wheel and, of course, the famous "Go Baby Go" button on the shifter. Even if you don't actually have a nitrous system hooked up (which is probably safer for your engine anyway), having that button is the ultimate conversation starter.
Why Do We Still Build Them?
You might wonder why people still put so much effort into a kit that's been around for over twenty years. I think it's because the Eleanor design strikes a perfect balance. It takes the classic 1967 Mustang—a car that was already beautiful—and gives it a modern, aggressive edge that hasn't really aged. It doesn't look like an old car trying to be new; it looks like a timeless beast.
Driving a car with an eleanor body kit mustang is an experience. It's loud, it's low, and it's wider than you expect. You have to be careful over speed bumps and keep an eye on your side pipes, but the feeling of pulling into a car show and seeing everyone's heads turn makes all the sanding and welding worth it.
At the end of the day, building an Eleanor isn't just about the parts. It's about the process of taking a piece of American history and turning it into something legendary. It's a big project, and it's definitely not the cheapest way to modify a Mustang, but for those of us who grew up dreaming of that silver Fastback, there's simply nothing else that compares.